An Ancient Occupational Illness in the 20th Century

the dirty truth about denim

Denim, a wardrobe staple in the U.S. and around the world, has a large environmental footprint and poses significant threats to workers’ health around the world.

• The massive consumption of water associated with denim starts with the farming of cotton. Not only does cotton require large amounts of water to grow, but it’s farming has been associated with the contamination of nearby water sources with mercury, lead, and copper. (Cowley, 2021)

• Many denim producers use Azo dyes, a group of 43 chemicals that can cause cancer banned in Europe due to their potential genetic and hormonal disruption in humans.

• Denim is also often treated with finishes which make it flame retardant (using chemicals which are linked to a number of reproductive illnesses and cancers) as well as various other solvent products meant to prevent fabric from becoming contaminated or moldy on its way to the consumer.

enter sandblasting…

Sandblasting is a technique used to maintain metal surfaces, boats for example. Pressurized guns blast sand onto the surface of the metal to rid it of rust and other buildup and to prepare it for fresh paint. In the context of denim, sandblasting serves to distress the fabric for aesthetic purposes, creating a “worn” look favored by many consumers.

Denim sandblasters face intensified exposure for some of the following reasons:

• prolonged exposure due to long working hours

• small unregulated workshops

• due to the small scale of the object being sandblasted, work is performed in small, poorly ventilated workspaces

• marginalized workers, often poor undocumented immigrants, live in the workshops where they work and experience constant exposure even while sleeping (Metin Akgun, 2008)

if not (western) europe, where?

By the 1970’s, sandblasting was banned in Europe due to its documented health risks. In fact, silicosis, the disease caused by inhaling silica particles, has been documented since the Greek and Roman empires. Clothing manufacturers get around the bans by moving their production to less regulated countries, stocked full of workers who are desperate enough to do the work which has been outlawed elsewhere. To examine the consequences, several researchers have created studies surrounding the young, otherwise healthy, textile workers in Erzurum, Turkey.

Turkey is located on the Anatolian Peninsula, with parts of its territory on the continent of Asia and part in Europe. Workers from poor rural areas find themselves in Erzurum and other urban hubs in search of work. After a surge of young men suffering from silicosis was noticed in Istanbul hospitals, researchers set out to find out why. They consequently studied 100’s of men, with a mean age of 23, who had worked in small scale denim sandblasting workshops for an average of 36 months.

what is silicosis?

Silicosis is a long observed occupational hazard, caused by the inhalation of dust containing crystalline silica. It is an ancient and well-known occupational lung disease caused by inhalation of free crystalline silica. Due to the prevalence of silica in stone and sand, the disease is commonly found among miners, stone cutters, and sandblasters. As workers inhale silica particles, the particles become trapped in the lungs, and over time cause the build up of scar tissue, impeding proper lung function. (Metin Akgun, 2008)

Symptoms include:

• persistent cough

• shortness of breath

• difficulty breathing

Complications:

• COPD

• Tuberculosis

• Cancer

• Kidney disease

the study

Using questionnaires and personal interviews, the researchers created profiles of the study participants to document prior health conditions and work history. Researchers also used spirometers and x-rays to evaluate the lung function of the participants. The study participants were all former sandblasters, all of them having left the industry as they learned of the serious health consequences. The ex-workers reported having worked between 10-12 hours a day, sandblasting up to 2000 garments per day, depending on the size of the garment. Many workers slept in the workplace, separated from the work line by a room dividing screen, increasing their time of exposure. Workers reported being provided with minimal PPE, if any at all.

Information gathered in the questionnaire indicates that the large majority (83%) reported having difficulty breathing while working or resting. Chest pain was also reported, as well as other complaints. Based on x-ray, 53% percent of workers studied were diagnosed with silicosis. Those diagnosed tended to have spent more time in the industry. It was concluded that the close quarters and poor ventilation of small sandblasting workshops put otherwise young healthy workers at significant risk for developing lung disease and comorbidities. (Metin Akgun, 2008)

what can be done?

In 2008, Turkish sandblasting workers formed the Solidarity Committee of Sandblasting Laborers. In March of 2009, the Turkish Ministry of Health banned the practice of denim sandblasting. The committee continues to petition the government to support affected workers by providing them with medical care and for compensation for the many workers who eventually died from complications of silicosis. The committee also works to gain pro bono council and raise funds for court costs. (Kotiscileri)

As Turkey banned the practice, the workshops began to pop up in Bangladesh, China, Pakistan, Italy, Syria, and Indonesia. Activists call for a worldwide ban of denim sandblasting, as its health outcomes have been very well documented. Workplaces are encouraged to implement the Hierarchy of Controls, as presented on the previous page of this project. Sustainable fashion brands are exploring alternative distressing techniques using lasers instead of sandblasting, but it has not yet been widely adopted. Our greatest power as consumers lies in rejecting the temptation of Fast Fashion and taking steps to reduce our consumption.